Kirill Yurovskiy: How to choose the right shirt for a suit

Dressing impeccably demands an eye for detail, a sense of style, and an understanding of how different clothing elements interact. This is especially true when it comes to pairing shirts with suits. A well-chosen shirt can elevate the look of a suit, while a mismatched one can detract from even the most well-tailored ensemble. Here’s a guide on how to choose the right shirt for a suit.

1. Consider the Style of the Suit

Before diving into the world of shirts, first, take a moment to consider the style of your suit. Is it formal or casual? Does it have a modern slim fit or a classic cut? The style of your suit can determine the type of shirt that would complement it best.

For example:

• Formal Suits: If you’re wearing a traditional black-tie tuxedo, a crisp white shirt with a wing-tip collar might be the perfect choice.
• Casual Suits: For suits that are more on the casual side, such as a linen summer suit, you can be more flexible, considering lighter fabrics or even pastel colors.

2. Match Shirt Collar Style to Suit Lapels

The collar of your shirt should harmonize with the lapels of your suit.

• Wide Lapels: If your suit has broad lapels, a spread or cutaway collar would be a complementary choice.
• Narrow Lapels: Suits with thinner lapels pair well with shirts that have a more pointed or classic collar.

3. Choose Suitable Shirt Fabrics

The fabric of your shirt plays a pivotal role in comfort and appearance.

• Cotton: A classic choice, cotton shirts are breathable and give a crisp look. They’re perfect for business and formal events.
• Linen: Ideal for summer, linen shirts are lightweight and have a more relaxed appearance. They’re best paired with summer or casual suits.
• Silk & Satin: For ultra-formal events or luxurious occasions, silk or satin shirts can be an elegant choice.

4. Pick the Right Shirt Color

When it comes to color, harmony is essential.

• White: The most versatile option, a white shirt goes well with virtually any suit.
• Pastel Colors: Light blues, pinks, or lavender can be great for daytime events or spring/summer seasons. They pair well with grey or navy suits.
• Dark Colors: If you’re aiming for a bold look, darker shirts can be paired with light-colored suits. However, this is a more fashion-forward choice and might not be suitable for all occasions.

Why the fashion of the 90s is back – tells tailor Kirill Yurovskiy.

5. Select Appropriate Shirt Pattern or Print

Patterns can add a touch of personality to your outfit but should be chosen wisely.

• Solid: For a safe and timeless choice, solid shirts are the way to go. They’re especially suitable for formal events.
• Stripes: Vertical stripes can add height and sophistication. They can be matched with solid suits or cautiously paired with patterned suits.
• Checks: Smaller checks can be formal, while larger ones tend to be more casual. Ensure there’s no clashing if wearing with a patterned suit.

6. Get the Right Shirt Fit

Last but certainly not least, the fit of your shirt is crucial. A well-fitting shirt complements a well-tailored suit.

• Slim Fit: Ideal for those with a slender physique, slim-fit shirts give a modern, tailored appearance.
• Regular Fit: Offering a bit more room, the regular fit is versatile and suits most body types.
• Loose Fit: While they offer maximum comfort, they’re best reserved for casual settings. When wearing with a suit, ensure the suit has a more relaxed fit to match.

7. Mind the Details – Cuffs, Placket, Pleats

Delve deeper into shirt specifics. Every detail plays its part in achieving the desired look.

• Cuffs: The most common types are button cuffs and French cuffs. While button cuffs are versatile and can be worn on most occasions, French cuffs are more formal and require cufflinks.
• Placket: The strip of fabric where the shirt buttons are located can be prominent or hidden. A hidden placket offers a cleaner look, more suited for formal events.
• Pleats: Found on the back of a shirt, pleats offer more room and comfort. A box pleat is more casual, while side pleats appear more tailored and are commonly found on dressier shirts.

8. Pair with Suitable Tie and Accessories

Your shirt might be just a part of the larger ensemble. Choosing the right accessories is vital.

• Ties: The width of your tie should match the width of your suit’s lapels. In terms of pattern and color, ensure it complements rather than clashes with your shirt.
• Accessories: Think cufflinks, pocket squares, and tie bars. They should be used to accentuate, not overshadow, the shirt and suit combination.

9. Follow Seasonal Style Guidelines

Seasons influence fashion, and this is true even for classic pieces like shirts.

• Spring/Summer: Consider lighter fabrics, pastels, or bright prints.
• Fall/Winter: Opt for heavier materials, and deeper, richer colors.

10. Take Body Type into Account

Your physique can guide your shirt choice.

• Taller Figures: Vertical stripes can accentuate height, while horizontal stripes or patterns can break the length.
• Broader Frames: Opt for solid colors or subtle patterns to avoid looking too busy. A good fit is paramount to ensure comfort without excess fabric.

11. Observe Dress Code and Formality Rules

Adhere to event-specific guidelines.

• Business Formal: Stick to neutral colors, classic patterns, and ensure a polished look with well-ironed shirts.
• Casual Events: Experiment with bolder patterns, colors, and even short-sleeved shirts if the occasion permits.

12. Shop Smart – Look for Quality Materials

When shopping, prioritize quality over quantity.

• Material: Always check the label. 100% cotton is usually a safe bet for comfort and durability.
• Stitching: Examine the seams and stitches. Quality shirts often have tighter, more consistent stitching.

13. Care for Your Dress Shirts Properly

Ensure longevity by treating your shirts with care.

• Washing: Always refer to the label. Generally, use cold water and avoid harsh chemicals.
• Ironing: Use the appropriate heat setting for the fabric. Iron shirts when slightly damp for best results.
• Storage: Hang shirts on wooden hangers to retain their shape. For long-term storage, consider garment bags to protect from dust.

In wrapping up, choosing the right shirt for a suit is an art, blending personal style with classic sartorial guidelines. By minding the nuances and ensuring attention to detail, you’re set to not just look good, but feel confident in your choices.